Friday, November 6, 2015

48 Hours in Paris

Notes from my weekend in Paris, which turned out to be much more work than play.  I saw half a dozen hotels from top to bottom, each more decadent than the last.  The trip was a tease, leaving me wanting more of the Parisian life.  

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Day 1

17h
I arrived in Gare de Lyon the beautiful nineteenth century train station, just before 5 and immediately grabbed Line l of the metro, the oldest in Paris, straight to George V. Exiting onto the Champs Elysées, I was greeted by the line for Louis Vuitton.  A single turn right and several steps brought me to the steps of Hotel Prince de Galles. 

17h45
After a short tour of the hotel I discovered that both Gorbachev and Elvis had visited where I was to now stay.  I also saw the UNESCO heritage site courtyard and the Michelin star restaurant before the receptionist led me to my room, where a personal letter and complimentary champagne awaited. I spent a few minutes relaxing, then had a quick cup of Nespresso before heading out. 

18h15
October in Paris means it was already dark, even at 6. But this only meant that when I came to the end of Avenue George V, after a few stops of window shopping, the Eiffel Tower was already lit, rising up from the Seine, as beautiful as ever.  Every time I come to Paris, I am stunned by the beauty of the golden lights against the night sky, searchlight beaming in a citywide arch, and in that moment, I never want to leave. 

19h15
After walking along the quays to Pont Alexandre III, I strolled up a ramp to find myself in Place de la Concorde, the Arc de Triomphe on one side, the Louvre on the other.  I went straight ahead, towards the Madeleine and a quarter of Paris I had never seen before. 

21h
Exhausted after several hours of walking, I was glad to find my way to Chez Andre, a bistrot near my hotel.  I recommend the chateaubriand with bernaise.  Honestly, I recommend everything.  I’ve nibbled off of so many plates, and tried so many things, you’re sure to find something you like.

22h
Back at the hotel, I drew a hot bath, scented with complimentary bath salts. With champagne in one hand and chocolate in the other, I soaked away the streets in preparation for tomorrow's site inspections. 

The Mandarin Oriental lobby
Day 2
9h
Breakfasted in the bar of the hotel, one if the most beautiful I've seen. The chairs are mismatched and upholstered, nestled beneath dark marble tables. My seat was next to the window and as I sip my coffee, I see the reflection of the vaguely organic chandelier superimposed over the mosaic of the courtyard pillars. As soon as I sat down, a coffee was brought to me as well as a copper bowl croissants, brioches, and baguette. Sampling the breads, I found they were still warm. 

13h30
After a whirlwind morning of hotel visits, from Geroge V to Place Vendome, I found my way to Cafe de Flore, one of my personal must-see restaurants of Paris. Though it's become a bit of a tourist high road, shuffling through the crowds for a plate of Welsh rarebit is always a delight. 

After lunch, I searched for a recommended chocolate shop and went through place Saint Sulplice before heading towards Rue Saint Honore. 

15h
The afternoon hotel tours began with the Mandarin Oriental then on to The Peninsula.  Both hotels battled each other for first place for most luxurious lodgings in Paris.  House-sized apartments, butlers, and sky-high views, I couldn’t decide which is the best.  The Mandarin offers quiet solitude, The Peninsula a bustling atmosphere.  

The library of La Reserve


17h30
Exhausted from the day, I go back to Prince de Galles for another soak in the tub.  (I’m making up for lost time, as my house doesn’t have one.)  Afterwords, I go downstairs for tea and call it an early night. 

Day 3
8h
I fell asleep the night before with grand plans of breakfasting in the Tuileries. However, morning came to early and it's all I can do to wander downstairs for fresh pastry and espresso. 

10h
Jolted awake by the caffeine, I set off down the nearly empty Champs Elysées, making my way towards the Louvre. Sadly, there isn't enough time to make it to the museum. Brunch and a final hotel tour await. 

The view from the Westin